Hotel #2: Pension Al-Nazih
After a rough day, I feared the owner of Talal's had thrown my belongings out the door. I decided to check out Pension Al-Nazih first.
Inside, a large group of men was eating dinner. Barely entering, I told Michel about my problems at Talal's. I wanted to pay him to simply store my luggage in his hotel.
Michel was confused why I wanted to leave Talal's.
"Does the owner not like you?" he asked.
"He likes me too much," I answered, promptly bursting into tears.
Michel grabbed a box of tissues and quickly shuffled me to the stairwell. Stammering, I told him about my horrible day. Eventually he asked what I would do about my visa. For future reference, Michel said the wording mattered, and I should've insisted on the "FREE 1-month tourist visa." I would have to pay for the $17 visa now, but there was actually no additional penalty.
I said sadly I was ready to leave. $17 was too much when I was having a bad time. He made me an offer: to balance it out, I could stay in his hotel for free as long as I wanted. This set me off on a fresh batch of tears.
Later I called Tony. Michel hovered and fed his own coins into the phone whenever it ran low. He offered me free beers, food, and cigarettes. His kindness was incredible.
Tony couldn't meet up, and I had to deal with Talal's first. I grabbed my stuff, and firmly told the owner I was leaving. He charged $6... no charge for the day my luggage spent in the room. Surprising.
The dorm room at Al-Nazih was very pleasant. Dark wood furniture, firm mattresses, sink, satellite TV, and large window. I was the only occupant the first night. The shower and toilet were completely separate! The air-conditioned common area was cozy. And while the free internet here was also a single computer, it was comfortable to use. The travelers were much friendlier, possibly because of Michel's vibe. The cooler full of snacks and drinks worked on the honor system, as did the laundry service. Michel gave great advice for getting around.
As an extra bonus, Michel had a girlfriend, which made me even more comfortable. Naoko was formerly a guest, but had been living in his bedroom for the last 8 months.
Naoko told me about the Filipino prostitutes in Lebanon, but also insisted she felt more uncomfortable in Syria. She said a hotel guestbook in Hama had warnings about Talal's, and that my former roommate also checked out (and into Al-Nazih) after hearing my story. Naoko stayed in to entertain me. We drank a lot—beer, Lebanese wine, arak, and even some infused vodka she had made.
I loved hearing Michel's dreams for the future, and his previous work in turning his father's locals-only hotel into the popular backpacker spot it is today. I cannot recommend Pension Al-Nazih enough; it was the bright spot of the country.