My talkative Mar Musa buddies recommended Talal's New Hotel. Ala, my host from Amman, recommended Pension Al-Nazih. Both hotels cost $6/night for a dorm room.

From Damascus, I e-mailed Talal's. The owner seemed friendly and answered my visa questions (so I thought). Because we'd had contact, I decided to stay in his hotel.

The hotel is a 10 minute walk from the Charles Helou bus station in Beirut, easy to find. Upon entering, I felt an unwelcome vibe. The owner seemed creepy. The cramped hotel was up a couple flights. I was disappointed that the "free internet" consisted of a single office computer and 30 minute time slots.

The owner and I argued about my border issues... he told me if I spent more than 48-hours there I'd be charged the original $17 visa AND a penalty (he was wrong about that). Adding to my frustration, my room wasn't ready. While talking to another traveler about the ridiculous visa situation, the owner heard me say "ridiculous" and ordered me to get out of his hotel! I explained, but was extremely irritated.

Eventually a room was ready. Standard issue, featuring four beds, looked very clean. The bathroom was next door, more spacious than most, with some separation of toilet and shower.

After an evening out with Tony and Ani, I returned to the hotel late at night. Clearly sleepy, the owner insisted I join him in the lounge. He apologized for trying to kick me out earlier. While stroking my arm, he offered me a drink from the cooler. I tried to leave but after he clasped his hands like a gun and pointed them at my head, I meekly chose a juice.

Perched uncomfortably on the couch. He suddenly stroked my hair. Before I could react, he grabbed my face and pulled me in roughly for a kiss. Shoved him and ran. Heard him call "wait, I'm sorry" behind me.

The bathroom next door was occupied, so I went to one down the hall. I noticed two doors... the second one led into the owner's bedroom. I slammed and locked it.

The next morning my Japanese roommate told me he had harassed her as well. At the time I didn't realize the hotel Ala had recommended was so near, so I decided to figure it out later.

I needed the owner's directions for Baalbek, unfortunately. The other travelers were unhelpful. Sullenly, he started a rambling explanation of the various busses I would take. Another girl joked "Are you getting that?' I laughed, and once again he tried to kick me out. Further, he yelled I was WEIRD and everyone else APPRECIATED him and SERIOUSLY GET OUT. I snapped. I yelled back that I was only "weird" because he was a slimy ass. Silence fell on the various travelers. I edged out.

So ended my time at Talal's, although I didn't know it yet. The official end came after I returned from Baalbek.

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