In some ways, Luxor is a really pleasant town. Packed with thousands of years of history, it's a modern city built around ruined temples, with ancient Thebes across the river. The Nile is beautiful here, not hotel-bound as in Cairo, and the villagers of the West Bank are very friendly. Horse-drawn carriages clop rhythmically along the Corniche, which is lined with trees and park benches.

But with attractions rating second only to the Pyramids of Giza in popularity, Luxor is also the hassle capital of Egypt. Be emotionally prepared. Don't get defensive with the many touts you'll encounter, which will only ruin your mood. The touts are working for a living too, albeit in a damn annoying way.

Luxor temple at night
This should be seen both in the daytime and nighttime. The temple itself is beautiful and well-preserved, but also intriguing simply for its location right in the center of a town built up around it, mingling ancient and modern in a blatant way.

Unlike most of the monuments in Egypt, the Luxor Temple has escaped the cheesy sound-and-light-show treatment. It is lit with floodlights after dark, elegant and simple. It's possible that you can beg your way in on the day ticket, but because the tickets from the temples don't actually have "Luxor" or "Karnak" written on them, it's hard to remember which is the right one. I thought it was worth the second admission.

Luxor Museum
It is beautifully designed inside and out. Unlike the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, here the displays are clearly labeled and quite educational. They have a couple mummies as well in excellent condition judging from the amount of hair. Plus, it's air-conditioned and not touristy.

Meeting a local family
I thought I was amazingly lucky to spend time with a local family. I became friends with my driver from the West Bank and had a lovely afternoon at his house. Later, when I told my host about it, he said that meeting village families is a somewhat common occurrence for travelers on the West Bank, so be alert for invitations of hospitality.

The Corniche
If you can stand the hassle and shoo away touts with good humor, a walk along the Nile road Corniche El-Nil is incredibly pleasant. The scenery is beautiful here, the breezes refreshing, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops in which to wile away your time.

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