I am told Spring Flower Hostel (Zahert al-Rabie) is the only inexpensive hotel in Aleppo—as it's my only option all travelers' tales become irrelevant. Later I learn that, just like in Damascus and Hama, there is another cheap hotel on the same block called Hotel Syria.

Spring Flower's receptionist, Salaam, has been told that he looks like an American movie star. "Which one?" I ask, already guessing. "Willem Dafoe," he replies. He has no idea who this is, so I let him believe it's a compliment.

Willem/Salaam leads me to a four-person room, which features a rotating cast of boys. It's such a change from Jordan and Egypt. The room rate is 185SYP, with air-conditioning at an extra fee. The bathroom is oddly large—there's no reason for not putting a wall between the toilet and shower. The beds are saggy. I already know the pain of living with boys back in Brooklyn, and it manifests again here as I walk in on unflushed toilets and deal with a self-absorbed and condescending roommate.

I also spend time with a sweet girl named Alice, who I met previously in Hama. Alice chooses to sleep on the roof, which, at Spring Flower, is a dedicated area. It's only 100SYP, but with the common space so close by and the bathrooms on another floor, I'd rather share with the boys. Alice finds the owner Ussama a bit severe, especially because he keeps the book exchange under lock and key.

Willem is a bit too attentive but amusing. Outside, we see a crowd of men gaping slack-jawed at some blonde women in a truck. The other guests and I are baffled. Willem explains that they are working girls.

Spring Flower is a friendly place full of fun travelers. It's in a great location, near the juice street and many food stands, just a few blocks from the Karnak bus station and one of the few Internet cafés. It's also convenient to the fascinating old city and many banks. I love that it's in the tire district of Aleppo, stocked with tractor tires taller than I am and men who smoke nargileh while their children learn the business.

Spring Flower also offers tours, although the options from Aleppo are fewer and pricier than from Hama. Here the driver (Ussama's brother) speaks English and attempts to guide us, although he's not required to do so. The staff is budget-conscious and encourages forming groups to share costs.

It's not all halcyon days of prostitute-watching, of course. Ussama tries to tack on charges to Alice's bill but backs down when she refutes them. I have a run-in with Willem on my final night, as I foolishly believe he's harmless and join him for some beers in the lobby. He's easy enough to escape, but it's enough to steer me toward Hotel Syria next visit. Otherwise, the other staff members are friendly and non-sleazy (although their lack of English means that I don't actually know). It's comfortable, cheap, and a backpacker magnet.

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