I don't know what it is about the Libertines. As mind-bogglingly foul as I find Pete Doherty, the band's music is transporting: pounding, upbeat, driving, rolling, the Libertines remind me how amazing rock is, and how these days, it's harder and harder to find.

The drive through the soaring red mountains of Abiquiu was so brilliant I needed to give my musical cheesefest a break. Along with the Libertines, now Modest Mouse, Cold War Kids, Jesus & Mary Chain, and the Hives comprised the soundtrack: tough, robust music for an awe-inspiring panorama.

Pull off anywhere in the road in Abiquiu...the whole region is beautiful

I didn't have a specific plan, as I didn't really understand if Abiquiu was a park, a town, or just a region. I headed toward Ghost Ranch, famously associated with Georgia O'Keefe, because I assumed it would be easiest to figure out hiking from there.

It was much further than I thought, and I hadn't allotted enough time to get there from Santa Fe. Furthermore, it was September 2nd yet I still held on to the belief that the sun would set at 9:30. So at 4:30, I pulled off at a particularly red—yes, luridly red—mountainous area to take photos and noted that hmmm...the sky was much darker than I preferred.

Driving along, singing my songs, I focused on the ever-darker thundercloud looming in the distance. I was heading there, and in addition to the impending storm, sunset was not as far off as I would like.

Ghost Ranch was many miles past Abiquiu limits, through brilliantly colored hills that took my breath away with every turn. I couldn't keep up with the speed limit, and infuriated many a driver...I just couldn't stop gaping at the stunning countryside. When I finally arrived the visitors center was closed—poor planning yet again. Without a map, unsure which trail featured the best beauty-to-efficiency ratio, and quite certain of coming downpours, I set off on the first trail I spotted.

There were adorable donkeys, which was my personal highlight. Their soft noses poked toward me while strikingly striated rock loomed behind them, setting a scene I couldn't have loved more. It was as enchanting as O'Keefe described, it was colorful and it was haunting and....it was raining. I debated for a few minutes whether I should simply continue with my umbrella, but the sky washed everything in grey and I was cold. I wussed out.

In retrospect, Ghost Ranch would have been a good place to spend the night; the rates were reasonable and would have allowed for early-morning hiking. Could have been funny to have a travel partner to joke with, but maybe it was better I had this mismanaged afternoon to myself.

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