Pedro offered us a chance to meet a family in Tlacolula that made rugs; ostensibly we would learn the process of making natural dyes, spinning yarn and weaving on a loom, but of course we were well aware that we would be encouraged to buy as well.

Sweet daughter of the weaving family

Yarns and the family's handmade loom

The family turned out to be so delightful that we were eager to buy from them. Pedro hadn't been able to apprise the family in advance of our visit, but they were so welcoming and friendly. This particular family did not participate in the Tlacolula market; with Josefina Méndez López's unique designs (along with traditional designs), customers probably sought out her family's work. But during low season, made even less touristy due to Oaxaca's civil unrest, it was entirely possible the family went a long time without a sale. The rain probably didn't help matters.

Josefina and her husband patiently hung up and spread out all the rugs they had for sale, while her mother showed us how to comb wool. It was much harder than it looked, and when Rubina and I gave it a try we realized how strong the old lady was. While Jasmine was entranced by the family's goats, we watched abuela gracefully spinning wool, and then took our turn breaking every strand while the family grinned cheerfully.

This is much harder than it looks!

This was nigh-impossible

Josefina demonstrated various fruit and vegetable dyes, and even a bright red dye made by crushing cochineal insects with a small rolling pin. Her husband then showed us the loom he had built himself, and how to weave a more traditional design. This process was far more tedious and time-consuming but in my opinion, less difficult than spinning wool. The traditional designs were essentially built on pattern repeats; it was obvious Josefina's special designs took far more planning.

Josefina demonstrates natural dye-making

Rubina gives weaving a shot

The prices were reasonable considering the craftsmanship and beauty of the Josefina's designs. We all live in small spaces and didn't want to carry too much, so large rugs were out of the question. A small rug (just under 2'x3') of Josefina's own invention was 600 pesos, or $54. A traditional repeat-pattern rug ranged from $36-$40. I was thrilled with my blue-bordered green rug, and received a free woven potholder with my purchase.

Josefina's small darling daughter already knew how to card wool. She was extraordinarily shy, and spent most of the time playing with her creepy hairless doll. I took a few photos of her, and upon seeing herself in my camera's screen she warmed up. By the end of our visit she was giggling and telling me I was beautiful.

After a few more photos of the family, we reluctantly said our goodbyes. Even though this was shopping-disguised-as-education, we had thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

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