On the plus side, the touristyness meant we could avoid typical Boliviano cuisine and eat something actually appealing. Because breakfast was included at our hotel, and the oppressive heat lowered our appetites, we only got out for two meals.

Around the corner from the tourist office is Casa de Campos, run by an incredibly sweet and friendly woman. The charming exterior drew us in—a pleasant garden of jungle plants with a hanging sign advertising vegetarian food. We weren't planning on eating it, but we appreciated the option and of course, knew that meant it wasn't Bolivian food.

Sandwiches—mine a perfectly-grilled chicken breast with cheese and BBQ sauce—were excellent and more than satisfied the desire to have something non-local. We topped off with a sundae which sounded wonderful from the description—fruit-laden with chocolate sauce, but discovered once again that Bolivians just don't "get" ice cream. Just like in the lovely Hotel Aranjuez, the ice cream erred on the icy side and had little flavor, and the chocolate sauce was of the thin variety used for mixing drinks.

Posted on the wall are glowing reports from Casa de Campos' devoted fans, many of who wrote of being in Rurre for months and visiting the restaurant almost every day. It was sweet reading how much people loved the restaurant and its wonderful proprietor, but hard to get past the idea of staying in Rurre for an extended time. Wherefore?

We returned to Rurre on Hemmy's birthday. Juliano, who we'd first met when redeeming our coupon for a free drink at the Butterfly Pub, and then again on the ride to San Miguel del Bala, welcomed us back to town. A French chef originally from Tunisia with extensive experience working in America, Juliano brings a bit of global flavor to this corner of Bolivia. Everything on the menu sounded tasty, so we asked Juliano for dinner suggestions. Being served directly by him, we were also hoping for special treats —whether freebies or a big discount—because he knew it was Hemmy's birthday. No luck, however.

Juliano suggested the Moroccan Chicken and the Curry Chicken as the two best entrees in the restaurant—we figured as the chef, he should know! Since these dishes were also far from the most expensive on the menu, it seemed he was being pretty honest. The food was plated in a most appetizing way and smelled heavenly. The chicken was perfectly moist, the curry sauce having a slight peanutty flavor. The Moroccan Chicken was in a sweet-and-sour sauce, but not the sticky glop from fake Chinese restaurants. This was light and fruity, a wonderful melding of flavors.

For dessert, Juliano brought out beautiful individual crème brulees, one with a birthday candle. Since we hadn't ordered it we thought maybe THIS was our free treat. Alas, no—but at 15Bs for 2 ($2) it wasn't a nasty upcharge. After the simple life in Torotoro and the muggy days in San Miguel del Bala, Juliano's Butterfly Pub allowed us a moment of sophistication.

<   previous      •      next   >