Highlights

A welcome respite from, well, ALL THE REST OF EGYPT, Dahab is like no place I've ever been. I'm not usually a beach person; which is not to say I don't find beaches beautiful, it's more that I get there, look around, and think...well, now what? Of course, when I do visit a beach, I'm usually with friends, so there's definitely fun to be had. But secretly, underneath the beer-guzzling and body-surfing, I'm a little bored. I just don't "get" the beach.

On my last two solo trips, I've tried to find unique angles on the beach and kept myself pretty isolated. I stayed away from backpacker ghettos, met locals, and definitely avoided surfer hangouts. Surfers are not part of my world.

I was actually alone in my world on those beaches. That solitude did not come without some inconveniences: only one restaurant in town, not even a place to buy water, nothing to do beyond swimming, which I enjoyed nevertheless because of the special qualities of these beaches.

To my immense surprise and delight, Dahab turned out to be exactly what I needed. It's a backpacker haven, but hardly crowded. There are activities aplenty, from the best snorkeling I've ever experienced to desert treks. The fact that it's geared toward tourists means there are many restaurants to choose from and numerous internet cafés with competitive pricing. Yet, for all its traveler conveniences, Dahab provides ample peace and dazzling scenery as well.

Of course, you can't come here expecting a secluded experience. There are cheesy beach bars, diving clubs every 10 feet, and because it's Egypt, shisha and perfume shops with their respective touts. But there's plenty of daytime beauty to enthrall visitors, and as a place full of solo travelers, Dahab makes meeting people easy. Summer, while blazing hot, is the best time if you don't want crowds.

Jump in. Dahab's sea is beautiful from the surface, but a whole fascinating world awaits underneath. I still dream of the unequalled snorkeling. I'm not sure how I've managed to go this long without having another milkshake by the sea. It truly was paradise for only $9 per day.

Calgon, take me to Dahab...

Quick Tips

Save money on lodging by not insisting on "beachfront" hotels. This is a meaningless term in Dahab. "Beachfront" hotels open up to the paved path, then the seaside restaurants, then rocks, then reef. The beach isn't pretty. You might as well stay across the road.

If you're ready to learn to dive, do it here...it's dirt cheap, with crystal-clear visibility and stunning marine life. Red Sea Relax in the Neptune Hotel has a package for getting certified that includes accommodation and breakfast. There are many dive shops to choose from, which may all offer this package.

I prefer the southern end of town to the popular area near Lighthouse Reef. There are fewer people in the water and more fish.

Internet is at its cheapest here. About 3EP is the norm.

If you can, give Dahab a week. You can explore the interior for a couple days, then spend a few days snorkeling or diving. Lazing around will prevent keeping a strict schedule.

The only thing refreshing about Dahab in the summer is the water. There's no cooling sea breeze or crispness in the air. Use high-SPF sunblock, wear a T-shirt while snorkeling, drink plenty of water, and take advantage of the many sheltered restaurants.

Getting Around

Just walk everywhere. Dahab is very small. There are tons of taxis for no apparent reason, and the drivers try their best to attract you. Unless you are REALLY drunk, it seems unlikely you will need a taxi to drive you 500m—at the most.

If you are going to the Blue Lagoon, however, you may want a ride, because the walk can be very hot over the sand. Usually there are guys with trucks who will ask if you need a lift. This shouldn't cost more than a pound or two—you may have to bargain. It's also possible to get the ride for free if they're heading down there anyway.

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