The bus from Cairo is ridiculous. I mistakenly believe a midnight departure means a solid night of attempting sleep in an uncomfortable seat. Heaven! I expect an A/C blast and bring a light jacket.

But of course, the A/C doesn't work. The packed bus is perfumed with good ol' BO. Our driver plays a DVD of questionable merit and cranks the volume up. He thinks we don't deserve sleep since he doesn't get any.

Turns out, sleep isn't an option anyway. We stop every hour for passport and ticket checks. If you're sleeping, you are shaken awake... well, I'm actually mumbled at until waking, because nice men are afraid to touch me.

So I'm not in the greatest mood when I meet Ziggy at the bus stop. Ziggy claims his mother is Jamaican and that his beach camp is very cheap. He charges 5EP for a truck ride into town, but if I stay, the ride is free.

Deep Blue is only 5EP for a hut with shared shower. In May 2005, the exchange rate is 5.8EP = $1. That's right, kids, you can sleep in a Dahab "beach camp" for a whopping $0.86 cents. Private hotel rooms cost 20EP. Why isn't everyone in Dahab?

The hut is small, with minimal air circulation, but it's a room to myself with a large bed and fan. The bathrooms feature the ubiquitous Middle-Eastern toilet-showers. Toilet paper and towels are provided. The sinks and showers pump out seawater. Salty residue comes free.

At Deep Blue, snorkeling is practically free as well, 5EP/day for mask and fins. Full diving gear is also available. It's located on the southern end of Mashraba reef, with fewer tourists and abundant marine life. Low on restaurants and shops, the area is very relaxing.

I am greeted cheerfully upon each return to the hotel. The staff members are likeable and appear to be buddies. It's a bit too spread out for meeting travelers, but I'm comfortable here.

Ziggy is very kind. One night, I'm attacked by everyone's favorite—traveler's diarrhea! Ziggy forces me to lie in his office so he can serve me special tea. He generously provides cigarettes to settle my stomach. They're medicinal!

Next door is a couple who have lived here one month. No surprise, they are French. I meet French loafers all over the Middle East. I ask the man his plans for the day.

"I am looking for a kitten," he says.
"Oh, I saw that kitten. I didn't know it belonged to you," I say.
"It doesn't," he says.

There is nothing more to add. We grin at each other. Dahab is kind of like that. You'll get it when you're here.

WEBSITE: Deep Blue
After entering the site, click on "accommodations." The 5EP huts are "Deep Blue Camp."

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