The highlights of Jordan are definitely the beauty of the land and the people. Amman is okay if you need some city conveniences. Jerash is worth seeing if you've never seen any Roman ruins before. But Jordan's strengths are the many gorgeous mountains, deserts, and valleys packed within a country smaller than the state of Indiana. You can cover Jordan in a week if you only hit the "main" highlights, but if you have more time, use it for snorkeling in Aqaba, hiking through reserves, or spending extra time in Petra. Excluding Petra (which is a unique experience), old stones are less of a draw here than in some other Middle Eastern countries. Take tea with strangers, talk with children, and walk to your heart's content.

But of course, there are more specific highlights:

Petra
Petra is described in a separate journal. Suffice it to say, this awesome spectacle of beautifully-designed facades carved directly into cliffs of yellow, red, and white strata was THE highlight of Jordan. Satisfying both desires to visit ancient ruins and to hike gorgeous desert scenery in one fell swoop, Petra should not be missed by travelers in any part the region. Seriously, if you are visiting Israel, go see Petra. If you are visiting Lebanon, go see Petra.

Royal Tombs, Petra

Wadi Rum
I have never seen anything like Wadi Rum. My encounters with deserts are pretty limited, but honestly, I felt like I was on Mars. The red sand, the rock formations that resembled faces, riding in 4x4s that appeared to date from Lawrence of Arabia's time... it was a weird and wonderful experience. The views are breathtaking, the quiet atmosphere soothing. You should absolutely spend the night here to see both sunset and sunrise.

Dana Nature Reserve
If you get a chance to visit Dana, you may be one of the few. It's not easy to find and not really well-known, even to locals. The Nature Reserve features a wide variety of landscapes and animal species (although you're unlikely to see anything other than small birds and lizards). With limited time, you can see the lovely mountainous area around the Rummana campsite. With an overnight stay or longer, it's a prime site for hiking and exploring.

Dana Nature Reserve

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