I wrapped up my semi-epic Middle Eastern journey in Istanbul, relieved to finally feel comfortable wearing short sleeves and looking men in the eye. Staying with my wonderful, very social host Doğan Selcuk and hanging out with fellow travelers from Göreme, I was lucky to have people to explore major sights with and people who would show me the best of local nightlife.

I had a blast and couldn't wait to return; I came home dreaming of Istanbul and wanting to live there. Then my friend Rubina found an amazing package deal online, for a flight AND 5 nights in a hotel (not hostel!) for $630. I couldn't resist, and neither could the other 4 friends she rounded up.

To my delight, Istanbul was even better the second time around. It was much colder in March than July (duh) but that meant fewer tourists. Light on real sightseeing and heavy on seeking out the best food in the city, Jamie, April, Rubina, Kip, Patrick and I had so much fun together we're already thinking about the 2nd annual "adult spring break."

I've chosen not to write about tourist sites because they weren't the focus of this trip, but please do try to squeeze in Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Yerebatan Sarayi, or even Topkapi Palace (not my favorite) if you have time.

Get a Turkish bath for sure—our women visited Çemberlitaş Hammam while our boys visited Cağaloğlu Hammam. Kip and Patrick were mixed about Cağaloğlu, especially the massage which they felt was too rough. We found Çemberlitaş wonderful. Very different from my former hammam experiences, with a large round marble slab in the beautiful domed steam room where naked women waited for an attendant to call. Everyone was washed on the edge of the communal marble slab. Massages were in separate rooms and wonderful—not slapdash affairs as in Syria but long full-body massages as in Jordan. Of course this luxury came at a price—our deluxe packages cost about $30.

Most importantly, get out and eat! Turkish cuisine is delicious and varied, from the humblest street snacks to fresh fish dinners. Our trip was focused on food at all times, and I wouldn't have it any other way!
References to prices included. At time of trip, $1 was about 1.4YTL.

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