I spot gorgeous Tokali Church just outside the Open-Air Museum. I haven't bought my museum ticket yet, which would include this cave church, but the guards eagerly insist I enter for cay and cigarettes. I think they're really bored. Most people are frescoed-out after the museum, and few remember to stop by this spectacular church on their way out.

The younger guard gives me a tour of the lovely "Church of the Buckle" before walking me to the museum entrance. The first glimpse is shocking. A shallow valley coated with soft volcanic peaks and bizarre rock formations, all carved into living quarters and places of worship... with several paved paths winding throughout dotted with greenery.

During Cappadocia's years under Rome, Christians carved out homes and churches in the soft rock, decorating the churches with Byzantine frescoes. Communities were formed for Christian education; small, secluded groups worshipping daily under a religious supervisor. All the churches in the museum are well-labeled enough for a self-guided tour.

But more importantly, the Open-Air Museum is so much fun. It's recommended to visit early morning before the tourists arrive, but as I discover, late afternoon is relatively tourist-free as well. Climbing up into the nunnery, peering in church doorways, weaving through tunnels and squinting at the tiny caves on the cliff face across the vast gorge makes for a magical experience.

Descending from one church, I hear my name called from a distance. The young Tokali guard appears 100 yards away, waving frantically. On arrival I find a wizened old man who cheerfully pulls me into a hidden cave for tea.

The friendly man is the museum gardener. He runs out to pulls in some American and Canadian girls who are equally mystified by his motivations. We chat while the gardener watches, as he doesn't speak a word of English.

Back out in the museum, I constantly see the gardener popping up and waving. I wonder if everyone who visits the museum meets the gardener.

The "Dark Church," Karanlik Kilise, requires a separate fee to enter. The single-girl discount is in full effect here: I waffle about paying as the church guard insistently waves me up, and end up getting in free. It's well worth the extra fee, however. This church has been beautifully restored and features extremely detailed frescoes; the quality of this church is on a different level from the rest of the Museum.

If the afternoon hadn't been good enough already, the maras dondurma near the entrance is the absolute best I've had so far. The chocolate version is like eating dark, cold fudge. Amazing.

Goreme Open-Air Museum costs 12YTL to enter, with an additional fee for the "Dark Church." It can be quite hot in the middle of the day in summer. Set aside at least 2 hours for a thorough exploration.

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