Shoestring Cave Pension is listed in Lonely Planet, but not in Footprint. I want to go somewhere OTHER than the most popular guidebook's recommendation, but I need an advance reservation and transport advice, and Shoestring provides an email address.

The helpful person answering my emails explains I should transfer buses in Kayseri or Nevsehir, that I should not arrive late lest I be stuck walking into Goreme, and that with advance reservation a bed in the dorm costs only 4YTL per night. Shocking after my 15YTL room in non-touristy Antep.

I call upon arrival and young Simon comes to carry my backpack and lead me to the hotel. It's up a hill; small, but enough after a long day. The manager Isam describes the tours to me. Later, the three of us go for drinks.

We end up at Flintstone's, a cheesy name for a cheesy place. On the plus side, Isam informs me that women do not pay for drinks in Turkey. Lovely. We old-timers drink and chat while 21-year-old Simon agitates. Isam explains Simon prefers dancing and younger crowds.

The cave dorm is fun and cheap, but also sleeps too many people for my comfort—I always worry my klutzy movements in the dark will wake others. There are three adjoining hollows in the dorm, each with three or four beds, plus one raised sleeping area accessed by ladder. The carved-out rooms are pleasantly cool in the summer—although my third night I get a chill and shiver too much to sleep. The beds are comfortable and warm blankets are provided.

Shoestring serves lunch and dinner, which looks unappetizing. The breakfasts, however, are fantastic, especially the giant gozleme for 3YTL. Bottled water costs 1YTL, although the same liter bottle costs only .65YTL at a store down the hill. Other drinks and snacks are available as well. Charges go on a tab (including tours), which is paid upon checkout.

In the center of the hotel is a large outdoor common area with dining tables, surrounded by the cave dwellings. The shared bathrooms require crossing through this area, which seems weird at first but normal soon enough. There are only two of the usual toilet-showers (sinks outside), but apart from the dorm, I believe all other rooms have private baths.

The office also serves as an indoor common area. There's only one computer but it's free to use. The cushion-covered corner is ideal for crashing out after borrowing a book from the exchange. Isam welcomes me enthusiastically on each return, pulling me down in front of the TV to tell him about my day.

Shoestring is a great place for the price, and I'd definitely stay again if I get to return to Cappadocia. It's a total backpacker hotel, but there are always locals hanging out—the staff is very friendly and most grew up in Goreme. The vibe is familial and very cool.

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