I happily inform my seat companion I'm going to Goreme. After a measly 4 days in Southeast Turkey, I'm embarrassingly pleased to meet someone on the bus who knows a scant few words of English. The standard tourist pronunciation of "Goreme" is so egregious I have to point it out to her on a map. Connection made, the young girl from Kayseri gushes that Goreme is a fairyland, too wondrous for words.

Her face falls when I can't visit Kayseri with her, but I've got limited time in Turkey. Switching to a Goreme-bound bus, I'm suddenly engulfed in foreign tourism. English words surround me. Giant backpacks jostle me. After a few days of isolation, I'm not sure I'm ready.

In the dark I make out the bizarre tufa peaks outlined against the stars. Cappadocia's soft volcanic rock, erosion-carved into moon-like tufts and valleys, is one of the most stunning, unforgettable landscapes in the world. As tired as I am, I'm already anticipating tomorrow's exploration.

Some locales are so over-touristed I feel extraneous, another face in the crowd. Sometimes I'm comforted: I'm visiting a deeply-loved and worthy place and I can take a break from miming wildly just to buy a bottle of water. I love meeting locals, but I equally enjoy meeting other travelers, and Goreme provides both opportunities in spades.

Goreme is Cappadocia's backpacker town. Loads of foreigners and English signage. But that means cheap accommodation, bars and food, and easy access to tours. Plus, it's a pleasant 1 mile walk to the Open-Air Museum.

The Open Air Museum is a beautiful collection of cave churches, carved into soft tufa by Medieval monks. The scenery all over Cappadocia is jaw-dropping, but the Open-Air Museum designates a concentrated area of beauty.

Tours of the region are offered throughout Goreme. Some operators are more reputable than others, but a good one should include the underground cities, Ihlara Valley, and a knowledgeable English-speaking guide. Even the reputable ones detour through shops disguised as learning experiences, but it's not that bad.

Despite the overload of tourists, Goreme is wonderfully relaxing. The locals never press rugs, tours, or food with any serious expectations. It's a great place to kick back for a few days, surrounded by peculiar panoramas and friendly folk.

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