Ghana and Malawi are both commonly considered "Africa for beginners." In both, people are reputedly friendly, English is widely spoken, hassle is low and standards are relatively Westernized. If these countries are for beginners, Ethiopia is an advanced study.

Kids along the TESFA trek, North Wollo region

Bet Abba Libanos, Lalibela

Girl with traditional baskets, Harar

The Royal Enclosure, Gondar

I knew little about Ethiopia before I started planning—my fascination revolved around childhood visions of Ethiopia as a desperate land of hungry people.

Who could forget "We Are the World?" Or the classic threat—"Eat that! There are starving children in Ethiopia!"

Ethiopia was always at the back of my mind, more recently vying for attention as I began to seriously consider my first trip to Africa proper—because as everyone will tell you, Egypt doesn't count.

Truth be told, my knowledge of African history and culture was never too strong, although perhaps no different than the average American's. Therefore I was surprised to learn that Ethiopia is the singular African country to never be colonized—well, there was that bothersome Italian period, but it simply wasn't long enough to make much impact on the ancient Ethiopian culture. Due to the lack of colonial overlords, Ethiopia is now one of only two African countries without an official European language.

Ethiopia runs on its own calendar—just celebrated the millennium in 2007—and its own clock, with the time sensibly counted as hours since sunrise rather than midnight. A rarity in sub-Saharan Africa where meals tend to feature a bland stew served with a side of mush, delicious Ethiopian cuisine is comparatively sophisticated. How could I not be intrigued?

The amazing Ethiopian culture is not doled out in tourist-ready packets, however. Hassle abounds in the forms of the infamous "ferengi hysteria" and the constant pleading wannabe guides. Buses, while very cheap, can be quite uncomfortable; standing in the aisles is not permitted but the typically skinny Ethiopians have no difficulties squeezing three people to a seat. Children are earnestly trained by their parents to beg foreigners for money. And outside of major tourist centers, few people speak English.

None of this should dissuade a potential traveler; instead, it should serve as a reminder that Ethiopia is not for beginners, but for adventurers. Beautiful, insane, captivating, irritating, Ethiopia blasts all the senses. While it's certainly possible to experience Ethiopia through the sterile bubble of a tour, the independent traveler will be greatly rewarded for all the hassle with sincere hospitality and the wonderfully warm & unique Ethiopian character.

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