December is the start of peak season in Ethiopia, but as a fairly untouristed country, it wasn't always easy to tell. But all tourists need to pass through Addis Ababa at some point.

The problem with this was lack of available rooms. There are two bargain-basement backpacker hotels across the street from each other in the Piazza area. The Wutma had confirmed over email that rooms were available but I hadn't actually reserved. My first pass through Addis was late evening after my delayed flight from Dire Dawa, and the Wutma was already full. I headed to the Baro, which did have availability but only in a double room.

I was walked to the room with a tray bearing a few squares of toilet paper and African condoms, which I quickly stashed away for my friend who researches reproductive health. The bare room featured a cold-water shower. Not really worth 90 birr but a bargain for two. The staff was quite accommodating, however, calling me a reasonably-priced taxi at 5AM for my flight to Gondar, and storing my bag of Harari coffee and baskets until I returned to Addis.

Back in Addis at the end of my trip, I opted for the Taitu. It was located in the cheap part of the Piazza near Baro Hotel, and several travelers had recommended it.

As basic as possible...not even a bathroom.

The Taitu is the oldest hotel in Addis, with a lovely design reminiscent of the houses in Harar. But once again, I faced the surprisingly high number of tourists and was only able to find a space in the annex—more recently built and much more plain. With a shared bath, the room cost 63 birr. I needed a replacement bulb for the light over my sink and toilet paper (which I wouldn't have expected if I hadn't noticed it in other rooms). Service was on African time, but the staff was gracious and I eventually had everything I needed.

Taitu is a great place to meet other travelers, especially when full. There is a bar/restaurant with both indoors and outdoors sections. The outdoors section overlooks the annex & reception area down a long flight of steps, and is a great place to chill with a drink.

Although its nicer rooms put Taitu out of the shoestring range, the shared-bath rooms make it a great, basic place to stay in Addis on a budget with easy access to the charm of the beautiful main building.

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