Highlights

Giza Pyramids—An obvious choice, but the sheer number of tourists and commercialism does not detract from the sight and experience of the Pyramids as much as you'd think. I was completely in awe in their presence, feeling the weight of thousands of years of history.

Feluccas on the Nile—These small, graceful sailboats provide a great way to while away a few hours, or if you so choose, to travel slowly from Aswan to Luxor. The scenery is loveliest at Aswan. The sunset ride is common in Cairo, but it's not quite as interesting, as the banks are covered in large Western hotels. From Aswan you drift by ancient tombs and desert mountain scenery, on a much cleaner section of the Nile.

The Nubian Museum—Unfortunately, I had only an hour to speed through the museum, as the doors close from 1pm - 5pm, and I had a train to catch at 4:30. But what I saw was fascinating—models that showed the original locations of the moved temples of Ramses and Isis, photographs and descriptions of the UNESCO rescue effort, Nubian pottery, weaponry and jewelry housed in a lovely museum based on Nubian architecture. It's a fairly extensive museum and definitely worth 2 or 3 hours.

Dahab—This was easily my favorite part of Egypt. The most amazing snorkeling (and I've heard, diving) I've experienced in my life, the best food in Egypt, and such an utterly relaxed atmosphere. Stay a couple days or a couple weeks. Covered in a separate journal.

Quick Tips

I cannot recommend an International Student ID Card (ISIC) enough! If you qualify, GET ONE. You will get hefty discounts on trains, archaeological sites, and museums.

Don't spend too much money on food outside of Dahab. The Middle Eastern staples of falafel and shwarma reach a real low in Egypt. Eat enough to get by, save your money, and don't get your hopes up.

Women should try to avoid eye contact with men when possible and dress modestly. If you are wearing light cotton, the heat won't really be so much worse in a long-sleeve shirt than a tank top. Headscarves are not necessary.

Be open-minded. The hassle from touts can really bring you down, but don't let it ruin your opinion of the Egyptian people as a whole, and stay alert for invitations. I had a couple wonderful experiences visiting local village homes because I trusted my instincts.

Summer is stifling in Egypt, but it's also the low season. If you can take the heat, you'll share the pyramids with fewer people and meet more friendly locals.

Bring a hat and plenty of sunscreen—it's hot as hell.

Getting Around

I'm going to save most details for a separate entry. In Cairo, there are a few different options, taxis, buses and the metro. Buses are for the adventurous only. Taxis run on a somewhat complicated system, which will be explained in the dedicated entry.

Aswan is small and easy to walk. Luxor is the same, but the Karnak temple is a pretty long walk from most hotels. If you take a taxi here, bargain before you get in.

The train system is very good and the scenery fantastic. Trains mainly traverse the Nile valley and Alexandria. With a student ID, the price drops below long-distance bus prices (buses do not offer discounts), so take the train when you can.

<   previous      •      next   >