The Quilotoa Loop gave me the opportunity to visit more remote villages and witness some of the most gorgeous scenery in Ecuador. The schedule wasn't particularly convenient, but it is definitely possible to go around the loop using cheap public transportation.

Chugchilán

The bus for Chugchilán left Latacunga at noon. The ride was one of the scariest I'd ever experienced. So bumpy a sports bra wouldn't have been out of place. So foggy the road in front of the bus vanished. So precipitous the image of our bus tumbling down the cliffs was burned into my mind.

It was also stunningly beautiful. The narrow dirt road hugged mountain sides and afforded breathtaking views of the green valleys far below. We were entering cloudforest country, and I left the sun behind in Latacunga.

Once in the tiny village (barely more than a bus stop and a church) a long-haired woman with a gentle face approached me about a place to stay. Not fully aware of the tinyness of the town, I assumed she was from some non-guidebook-approved place, waved her off and walked on. Turned out the place I was headed—Hostal Cloudforest—was owned by her family, and one of only 3 lodgings in town. Patty sweetly understood my initial suspicians and Hostal Cloudforest ended up being one of my favorite lodgings in Ecuador.

Chugchilán is a wonderfully peaceful place. The scenery is pastoral and deeply green, with llamas on the hillsides patiently watching passerby. At one point during a stroll, I encountered a scene of almost impossible cuteness: two small children, herding a bunch of baby lambs and piglets, holding puppies in their arms. It was the worst time to have camera malfunctions, but a wonderful memory that summed up Chugchilán for me.

The nights were very cold, but the lovely warm common area at Hostal Cloudforest was a great place to meet people. The first night, English couple Kate and Adam were the only other guests. Very sweet and funny, they were yet another pair who'd quit their jobs to roam the world together. Ah, someday. We downed beers and chatted as Patty's daughters refilled the big iron stove with more firewood...soon we were more than warm enough.

Laguna Quilotoa

Hostal Cloudforest's $6 price tag includes breakfast, so I informed Patty in advance that I would be taking the 4AM bus to Quilotoa. She packed me a simple breakfast to take with me, including extra water, which I found quite thoughtful. She assured me that many tourists get off at Quilotoa so finding the trailhead would be easy.

At 4AM, I noticed I was one of maybe 3 people on the bus. According to LP, the bus took 2 hours and would arrive just after sunrise. I told the bus driver I was getting off at Quilotoa and promptly fell asleep—NOT a smart move but 4AM is an unreal time for me to be awake. Luckily, the driver and assistant were kind enough to wake me.

At first I thought there was a mistake. I stumbled off the bus quite alone in the pitch black. Checked my clock—sure enough, it was only 5AM. Damn Lonely Planet! Barely able to see my hand before my face, I knew I would not be risking any hiking at this point. I could just make out a pastel blue archway so I sat on a boulder next to it, shivering in the early-morning chill. Dogs—were they strays?!—howled nearby. Freezing and frustrated, there was nothing to do but wait for the sun to rise.

I had planned to take the 6-hour hike back to Chugchilán, but guides were recommended. Again, LP was wrong, because at this hour there were no people at all, let alone guides. I set off on my own, hoping for the best.

Well, I never figured out the trail for getting out of the crater and into the valley that led to Chugchilán; the trails wound up over each other, even attempts to mark trails were foiled. Eventually after an hour and a half (when I should have been out of the crater in 45 minutes) I saw a sign pointing out the way to the valley. I happened to be perched on a high cliff staring at the sign far below, but at least I learned the trail was real.

Still, I enjoyed my time in Quilotoa. It was absolutely gorgeous, much more scenic than Cuicocha. I didn't hike to the lake's edge because by the time I figured out I was never going to make the 6-hour journey back I was pretty beat. But traversing the various trails up and down the crater was a great deal of fun, with more beauty at every turn. The only people I encountered were locals—I couldn't help wondering if crossing the crater lake was part of their usual commute.

Back in town, I was faced with various camiones drivers trying to get my business. I'd spent a lot of time at the crater, but due to my early arrival it was only 10:30AM with the only bus at 2:30PM. Eventually, the men wore me down. In retrospect, I wish I'd returned for more crater exploration, because I may never have encountered the Swiss.

I bargained down to $12, which I knew was a rip but I figured I was charged more for going alone. Little did I know we'd be picking up the Swiss at his hotel, who was crammed in next to me so tightly we were practically on top of each other...and he only paid $5.

After dealing with the Swiss' superiority complex throughout the bumpy ride back, then learning he was going to stay at my hostal (I recommended it without thinking), finding out that I had been so thoroughly cheated set me off. When the driver and his friend came for lunch at Hostal Cloudforest, I let loose a torrent of anger (only available in English) while they laughed and laughed. Oh, mountain people.

Buying water at the only shop in town, the proprietor asked me if I was Korean, because of my slanty eyes (according to the eyelid-pulling gesture he made). Looking coolly at the withered Indian with eyes much smaller than my own, I thought: this is not my day.

Back at the hostal, Kate and Adam were long gone to Baños, much to my disappointment. Replacing them were a French-Canadian couple who were very nice, but got along with the asshole Swiss more than I'd like, a Belgian, and a Spanish couple. None of us ever learned each other's names.

The French-Canadian couple did take the hike from Quilotoa to Chuchilán; they admitted they used a guide and agreed it was difficult following the paths in the crater. So, some validation at the end of the day.

Saquisilí

The bus to Saquisilí left Chugchilán at the ungodly hour of 3AM. When the owner of Hostal Cloudforest offered to drive us instead, we were happy to accept.

The benefits of going with the owner: we could leave one hour later and the ride would take one hour less. The downside: the Swiss, the French-Canadian couple, the Belgian, the owner, the owner's father AND I were somehow all to fit into the cab of truck. A friend sat in the back with our bags. When he mentioned his father we all gasped—not possible! He assured us his father "is very small." Hmm.

The other benefit of course, is that we would not be left behind. The French-Canadian girl knocked on my door at 3:55, as I'd completely overslept! Luckily I packed the night before. Rushed through ablutions and we were on our severely confined and bumpy way.


Saquisilí's market is sprawling. It is very much a local affair, although I swear I saw more tourists there than at Otavalo's animal market! Perhaps everyone who was determined to get off the beaten track wound up here. This market did not feature any pretty weavings or jewelry. There were tailors and shoe-repair men, baskets and metal bins. Also for sale were plastic household goods, toys and cheap clothing.

On the animal side, I noticed that this market was much heavier on sheep and llamas than Otavalo. Interesting, since that area is so well-known for woollen goods. The llamas were adorable! Couldn't stop taking photos. I noted smugly that despite his big words about "getting to know the culture" and "really talking to people," the Swiss was walking around the market with a big honkin' camera and shooting away.

Latacunga

There are frequent buses back to Latacunga from Saquisilí. After I got my fill of mountain wackiness, I headed back for lunch. There is really almost nothing to do in Latacunga...it's basically a base of operations. But it does have one feature that I'd recommend to anyone in the area: chugchucaras.

Chugchucaras is a heart attack on a plate. Chugchucaras La Mama Negra is purportedly the best place in town to eat this pork-intensive Latacunga specialty, and it definitely appeared to be the freshest and cleanest of all chugchucaras places on the street.

I got the big version for $4.50. I don't know what's in the small version. The big version contains:

Chicharron (fried fatty pork)
Mote (white corn)
Fritadas (fried pork chunks)
Plantains (sweet, mature)
Empanadas (sweet cheese)
Fries
Deep-fried pork skin
Oil-laden popcorn
Toasted corn

It's a crazy calorie explosion, but delicious. It was more than I usually spent on food, but it was more than enough food to be my only meal for the day. It's a must-try in Latacunga.

Loop completed, I headed off for the warmer climes of Baños.

<   previous      •      next   >