Lodging: Cabinas Selvin
This was definitely my favorite lodging. Far from the most luxurious, but full of charm. Cabinas Selvin is one of the few budget places that shows up in every guidebook (under various spellings, but "SELVIN" was on three signs on the road). The rooms are of varying amenities and prices, in a gorgeous setting, and with kind and welcoming owners.
I took the bus from Puerto Viejo for 220c. Due to language barriers, I didn't know where to get off and at some point decided I must have passed it, based on signs for other hotels that sounded familiar from the guidebook. I foolishly decided to get off and walk back.
Fortunately on this trip, I packed a REALLY minimal amountrather than a more standard-size 60-liter backpack I was carrying a small duffel that held about 38 liters. Even so, as I trudged further and further along the empty road, the bag grew heavier.
To my immense relief, I met an older American woman riding her bike in the opposite direction. She told me I was actually walking the wrong waythe bus hadn't reached Selvin's yetand kindly got off her bike to walk me there.
I probably looked pretty beat from lugging my gear from Puerto Viejo when I showed up at Selvin's open-air restaurant. He told me to relax in the restaurant until he could check me in. While he cooked madly away for the other guests, he took the time to make free pineapple juice and patacones (fried mashed green plantains) for me. He found me a single room with shared bath for 3000c. I put down my gear, he kissed me on the cheek, and said "Relax, you're home." I was flooded with happiness.
The room was small, with queen-size bed and desk. It was a foam mattress, but better than a bad innerspring. The mosquito net here was draped princess-canopy style. There were two doors and a large window, but no screens so unfortunately everything had to be closed at night or if I went out. And the door only locked from the outside for some reason, so locking up for the night was complex. Toads went in and out through cracks in the walls, and around 5:30-6:30pm, there were bats darting in and out of the hallway.
The bathroom was dark and FULL of mosquitoes. The shower was essentially a low-pressure faucet, with very cold water. This place did not offer towels.
But there was a hammock outside my room, where I happily swung the evenings away. Selvin's restaurant was AMAZING... a splurge for me at 2000+ colones per meal, but worth it for patacones, fresh fish, and coconut-flavored rice and beans. I saw the kind older lady a few times at the restaurant, as the apartment she rented was nearby.
Selvin alone made it worthwhile for me...when I tried to pay for a 2200c meal, he would only take 2000c and then gave me candy. When I asked him about renting snorkeling equipment, he lent me his own.
Then there's the beach. Ahhh, the beach. Described in another entry, the beach at Punta Uva is relaxing and lovely beyond belief.