I arrived in San Jose at 1:30AM, and after a slightly sketchy period of shooing away taxi drivers, finally got my pickup from Hostel Pangea. The hostel was cramped—two full bunks in a room about 10ftx10ft, depressing and smelly. It was my first true solo trip, and noting that the other 3 bunks were full I hugged my backpack to sleep. I didn't really trust other travelers any more than I trusted locals.

The breakfast was free but weak, and not conducive to making new friends. No matter, I was on my way out to Arenal Volcano anyway.

After some confusion with the buses—information I'd found in other guidebooks about the bus schedule clashed with the book I carried, and I ended up missing the bus I thought I was going to take—I found myself on a decidely local bus. Thinking about friends back home who said traveling Costa Rica was hardly different than traveling America made we wonder, which Costa Rica had they been to? Soon, the beautifully sunny day turned gloomy—the solid week of rain was just beginning.

A friendly bus assistant helped me off at the correct stop (I almost jumped off too soon) and pointed me toward Hotel Las Colinas. My first night was very low-key: walked around town (very tiny), checked e-mail, and had dinner at Soda del Rio. Spent way too much as the portions were really generous; 950 colones for a helping of arroz con pollo that could easily fill two people. But because I love having some variety, I added on a 500-colones dish of sweet plantains; another huge dish served with a heaping bowl of tart homemade sour cream, natilla.

Never-ending rain in La Fortuna

The next day the rain continued. Not only was it unwise to hike at the volcano, I couldn't even see it. There were two other options in the La Fortuna area: visiting the hot springs and hiking to the waterfall. As the hot springs were most definitely outdoors, I decided to try again later and check out La Catarata de La Fortuna first.

I was on a pretty tight budget, so I decided to walk to the falls. I don't recommend doing this. Of course, it was raining for about 3km; then for the remaining UPHILL 3km when it briefly stopped raining, it was incredibly hot and humid. But even on a nice day, the scenery is nothing special compared to what comes later and it tired me out before even tackling the several hundred steps down to the falls. Incredibly frustrating to watch people passing me in cabs and on horses, although it might have been OK with company. I found a dog that accompanied me part way, who kept turning around to check my progress...that was somewhat entertaining.

The falls costs $6 for foreigners, $3 for citizens to enter. This may be a price change because all the books say $3. While I caught my breath, I chatted with a friendly driver waiting for his American tour group to return from the falls. He was extremely impressed that I was alone and had foolishly chosen to walk here.

The waterfall was amazing and completely worth the fairly frightening (to me) descent on slippery stone and wooden steps, completely worth the heart-stopping climb back up.

I sat and stared at the waterfall for almost an hour, soaking my feet in the current. It was so beautiful, relaxing, refreshing, and gratifying. It was only my second day in the country and the overall vibe was... ahhh. THIS is what I came to Costa Rica for!

On the way back a kind British couple asked me if I needed a lift—it was $10 for their cab so I did feel a bit justified in trying to save money. 10 minutes after I got in the car...it started raining again!

Back at Hotel Las Colinas, the sweet manager Ivette could not honestly recommend going to the hot springs because she admitted the fee was high (I think it was $17) and the taxi out there, with no one to share the ride, would be exorbitant. With no prospect of seeing Arenal, I decided to leave the following morning.

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