" /> NANCY CHUANG PHOTOGRAPHY: January 2009 Archives

January 24, 2009

Novice monk | Kyaukme, Myanmar

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Portra 400NC
The little monk probably had enough food for now, which is why he'd been hanging out in front of Naing Naing's house rather than continuing down the road with the others. After cheerfully posing for a photo, he turned and joined the line as the other monks returned.

Collecting alms | Kyaukme, Myanmar

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Portra 400NC

Morning market | Kyaukme, Myanmar

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Portra 400NC
There are market-type stalls all around Kyaukme as well as a large indoors market that operates until about 5PM. But those can't compare to the morning market that explodes all over the streets until about 11AM. As the center of the district and basically the largest town surrounded by remote villages, Kyaukme is where people come from miles around for their necessities.

Lunch in a Meditation Cave | near Inle Lake

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Plus-X
Part of a gentle and unfortunately somewhat boring trek near Inle Lake. The meditation caves were nice, though. I visited two caves with my guide Khin Khin Soe, and in both the monks were welcoming and generous.

At the first we were given cookies and papaya—extra ripe and sweet—plus the opportunity to soak up the atmosphere as long as possible. Two monks lived at the first cave, the one who'd lived there 11 years acting as mentor.

At this second cave the monk was much older, and had been alone in the cave for 8 years. He showed us around the various shrines in the darkness of the cave, then brought us back to his living quarters, where Khin Khin Soe decided to cook lunch on his outdoor fire pit.

Big Drum Restaurant | Nyaungshwe, Myanmar

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Canon A630
This sweet man works as a waiter but occasionally as a boat driver. I assume the boat pays well compared to serving at a restaurant with 5-6 customers per night—15000 is the going rate for a day trip, although I don't know how much of that goes to gas or rent of the boat.

His village was further away than Paw Son's, so he'd moved to Nyaungshwe for work. His wife was Burmese, so he considered his daughter "true Bamar" as well. He had another on the way, which he was convinced would be a boy.

Although he complained that there hadn't been many tourists lately, the staff agreed the biggest hit had been due to the Bangkok Airport's shutdown. No mention of whether tourism had steadily decreased since Cyclone Nargis, whether it had basically been bad all year from his perspective.

He clearly adored his daughter, but the "white liquor" (rice wine) he shared with me also brought out the fact that he wished sometimes he was still single, that it was too much work having to worry about the family all the time, that he never felt like he could catch up financially.

Sunset on the Canal } Nyaungshwe, Myanmar

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Canon A630

Weaving Cooperative | Inle Lake

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Portra 400NC
A large part of an Inle Lake trip—quite anti-climactic after spending the morning at a home in Helon village—is shopping stops disguised as education. I skipped a few near the end, but of the ones I did visit, the weaving was by far the most interesting. This contraption for spinning threads was operated by six people.

Padaung girl | Inle Lake

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Portra 400NC
The Padaung don't live anywhere near Inle Lake, but come in hopes of earning some tourist dollars. The young cousins at this shopping stop were very sweet, only 15 and 16 years old. The older one was in the process of weaving some fabric for bags on a loom strapped to her waist, while the younger was just hanging out.

Noviation ceremony | Helon, Myanmar

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Plus-X
At Kyau Kund's home in Helon village, one of these boats unloaded its crowd of people to receive donations and blessings from the family. The younger boy--awfully young for a monk--was so cute. The older one was just over it.

Noviation ceremony | Helon, Myanmar

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Olympus OM-2N | Kodak Plus-X
Due to Kyau Kund and Paw Son's limited English, I didn't fully understand what was going on with these boats--outfitted with loudspeakers and boys dressed like pink princesses shaded under golden umbrellas--until I ran into a guide that explained the young boys were preparing to enter monkhood.

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